Gel Nail Polish 101: Everything You Need to Know About Gel Manicures

22 Dec.,2023

 

"When applied and removed correctly, gels are completely safe to wear on an ongoing basis,” adds Rita. "Gels can certainly weaken the nails if they are peeled or pried off the nail, which can strip layers of the natural nail, or if the nail if over buffed prior to gel application."

3. The ingredients in the gel polish matter. 

"More than just nail health, I opt for total body health,” says Jenna, who warns against the “toxic trio” carcinogens that are present in many polishes: Formaldehyde, toluene, and dibutyl phthalate (DBP). "After clinical testing, in high doses, these ingredients were found to cause inflammation along with many other adverse side effects like disturbing liver and thyroid function for example,” Rita explains. Luckily, most all professional-grade nail polishes manufactured today do not contain these “nasties.” Jenna's own brand of lacquers, along with Jinsoon's, RGB's, Zoya's, and Sally Hansen's come formulated without those common culprits.

4. Try to limit your exposure to the UV lamp.

A recent study from the American Academy of Dermatology revealed that gel manicures may not be a safe option for people who are highly sensitive to UV light. “The UV dose that you receive during a gel manicure is brief, but it’s intense,” Dr. Adigun said in the study. “Over time, this intense exposure can add up to cause skin damage.”

"An additional concern is the rise in popularity of LED nail lamps," Dr. Adigun notes of her own research on the safety of gel manicures. LED lamps have become popular as much for their faster curing times as the belief that they're safer than UV lamps, but Dr. Adigun insists this is not the case. "Although many people mistakenly believe these lamps do not use UVA [rays] to cure, they in fact use higher intensities of UVA wavelengths in order to achieve the shorter curing times. This higher intensity of UVA irradiance means that it requires less time for these lamps to potentially harm the skin," she explains.

When you still need your gel fix, Dr. Adigun says you'll need to make sure you use a broad-spectrum sunscreen, meaning that it protects against UVA/UVB rays. Plus, the UVA light from the nail lamps is stronger than the usual exposure you get from the sun. "Applying sunscreen during a manicure is [also] logistically difficult," she adds. "By the time the hand-care portion of the manicure is finished, prior to the application of the gels, sunscreen would need to be applied, and then the consumer and the nail technician would need to wait the recommended 20 minutes prior to applying the gel."

Instead, Dr. Adigun recommends bringing along your own pair of YouVeeShield gloves to protect your hands against UVA radiation (which also causes signs of premature aging like dark spots and wrinkles). "It is the most protective material [because it] protects the entire digits and wrist," Dr. Adigun says.

5. Think of gel polish as liquid acrylics.

Ever wonder exactly how gel manicures stay so perfect for so long? "The chemical compositions for gel polish and regular nail polish vary with each brand, but the major difference is that gel polish will only dry under direct UV or LED light contact, while regular nail polish can air dry," explains celebrity nail artist Yoko Sakakura. "Gel polish applications cure under a lamp, creating a hardened layer of polish that makes it more durable and longer-lasting. The removal process for gel polish is more complex as well, requiring the nail to be soaked in acetone to properly dissolve the formula off of the nail." So not only will they last longer, but they'll look harder and shinier while you've got 'em, too.

6. Hot baths or showers can cause gel polish to lift.

"A gel manicure’s worst enemy is hot water,” says Rita, hence why soaking them is the most effective way to get them off. "Long baths, showers, or time spent in a hot tub can cause lifting, so try your best to avoid these or keep them to a minimum and always wear rubber gloves when you do the dishes!” Duly noted.

7. The soaking-off process can be harmful.

While your manicure may stay firmly in place until you're ready to take it off, the removal process can be extremely harsh. According to Jenna and Dr. Adigun, soaking your nails in acetone wrapped in foil is what leaves them dried out and brittle post-gel mani. Additionally, once the foils come off, manicurists may scrape the nail plate with a file, which can result in more nail trauma. Making sure that your manicurist correctly applies and cures your gel polish in the first place can help to lessen this damage. "Properly cured gels remove easily with the acetone soak, whereas improperly cured gels require tools to manually remove them," Dr. Adigun explains.

8. Give your skin some TLC after the gel manicure is removed.

"It's very important that the surrounding skin and cuticle, as well as the nail plate itself, be rehydrated with a thick emollient such as Aquaphor or an overnight mask like Nails Inc.'s Overnight Detox Nail Mask post-removal in order to rehydrate and repair the surrounding skin, cuticle, and nails," Dr. Adigun says.

10. Hydrate your nails.

You know the importance of drinking plenty of H2O for your health – and the same rules apply when it comes to nail health. Also, hydrate your nails as much as possible in between salon visits. Dermelect Makeover Ridge Filler acts as a base coat and quenches shriveled nail beds, while the Nails Inc. Back To Life Recover Treatment can be used as a base coat or sheer nude polish that camouflages damage while hydrating nails with vitamin C and coconut, apricot, and avocado oils.

11. Consider using nail wraps for protection.

Want the look of gels minus the damage — and dry time? Jenna recommends using painted nail strips like NCLA's topped with a clear gel coat, like Essie's Gel Couture Top Coat. "This way, the gel never touches the actual nail plate, and it seals in the wrap for up to two weeks," she says.

12. ...or "gel-like" polishes to use at home.

There's also a series of "gel-like" polishes available on the market, which have long-wear properties that, generally speaking, will last a full week. While several brands have launched their own versions of the gel finish, Sally Hansen's Miracle Gel Nail Polish comes in over 70 (!) shades, and Covergirl's XL Nail Gel offers a high-shine finish at a drugstore price.

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